Cozette

Today was both Jordana’s 19th birthday and my cousin Daniella’s wedding shower, so we celebrated in style with a Breakfast at Tiffany’s themed party at the Thornhill Country Club.

Everyone wore beautiful summer hats, some vintage and some new. I especially loved the ones that Daniella, Zia, and my mom wore, because they were custom made by Lilliput Hats for the event.

Mom on the right and her oldest friend, Gabe.

Jordana wore a romantic vintage dress that she found at St. Lawrence’s weekly antique market. The best part was the ribboned  orange and plum crinoline, occasionally peaking out to reference the matching silk flower. I love subtle details!

Zia chose a black and white ensemble with yellow accents, right down to the trim on her shoes.

Cousin Lauren and baby Noah

Everyone was dressed to the nines. Above, Nonna looks glam in one of my vintage hats; below, a couple of our younger guests harness 1960s elegance in vintage frocks and hats.

If only every Sunday involved mimosas, party dresses, and amazing Italian treats . . .

Now in its fifth year, FAT is an event as much as an ideology. Rather than pandering to corporate advertising, organizer Vanja Vasic continues to focus on the artistic integrity of fashion and its integration into various art forms, including film, dance, music, photography and installation.

The five day alternative to mainstream LG Fashion Week opened with 3 SOLOS 1 DUET by Marq Frerichs. The powerful operatic performance and accompanying ballet duet perfectly articulated the day’s theme – longing – by exploring a person’s relationship with him/herself and the other.

It’s a good thing that the Davidamor collection was nice, because the show was a mess. The smoke machines, intended to create a romantic 1960s ambiance, did little more than choke the audience (including an unimpressed Jeanne Beker) and you could barely see the first few looks through the thick, smelly smoke. The haze quickly cleared, though, to reveal classic dresses and skirts in muted plums, moss greens and midnight blues.

Joelle Wall’s work was well tailored, nicely finished and practical for the working woman.

And yet, she also pushed the envelope.

Epoque by Thea Barber was supposedly inspired by her travels in Morocco, but the collection was quite banal. At the heart of the line was a series of simple, nude dresses that lacked creativity and/or any connection to the vibrant, rich culture of northern Africa. The I Dream of Jeannie hair styling was fantastic and yes, she used eco-friendly fabrics, but I’m becoming increasingly annoyed with designer bs when it comes to their inspirations.

Ryerson graduate Hilary Sampliner, on the other hand, presented an interesting take on frilly glamour. The line, Ruth Weil, is named after Sampliner’s grandmother who left the young designer her entire sewing kit and name labels when she passed.

I was quite impressed with the young designer’s workmanship, especially her use of layering and biased cuts.

Photographer Stefania Yarhi has mastered practical chic, ’cause you have to be comfortable if you’re going to battle the big boys for that perfect shot in the pit.

Melow presented an uninspiring collection of separates that was reminiscent of The Fairies Pyjamas. I also really wish that designers like Melissa Bolduc would leave headwear design to the professionals.

You can’t just throw raw edged crinoline on a headband and call it millinery design!

Thank goodness for artists like Jasper Garvida, however. His 1920s inspired collection was breathtaking, particularly this wool cashmere blend. I fell even more in love after seeing the dress backstage. The black ground was a single, laser cut panel into which he perfectly sewed puzzle pieces of fabric and leather.

His capes and jackets were also stunning, panels of shaved mink being seamlessly joined to create works of wearable art. This piece was my favourite of the series, probably because I own its vintage Parisian equivalent.

I’m happy to say that I snagged a pair of the shoes from this show at the designer sale FAT hosted this past Sunday. $40!

New York based musician Jet Phynx

Philipe and I explored the many installations and interactive rooms that were set up backstage . . .

While I’m disappointed that David Dixon decided to do yet another Barbie collection, the line wasn’t bad.

Dixon could have been more adventurous in his use of colour, but the textiles – however pink – were beautifully made. This three-dimensional fabric, for instance, had a life of its own. The lightly sewn scales dipped and ruffled with every step, as if the dress was breathing. That being said, the extra layers were distracting and too heavy for an otherwise airy look.

His raw silk take on houndstooth was also quite nice. The pattern was imperfect and looked more like rorschach blotting than the traditional Scottish pattern.

I was so excited to wear my favourite vintage hat! I found it last fall at The Stella Antiques Show in New York and I’d been waiting MONTHS for the perfect occasion. I was even happier after organizers handed out dozens of cases of beer!

Dixon’s own line was more refined. He created a perfect hybrid between classic and modern tailoring.

His colour palette was also more wearable and elegant.

The only look that I really loathed was this one. Dixon tried to hit too many trend points, the result being a disjointed fashion Picasso. The lace was too heavy for the feathers, the skirt was too conservative for the top and the belt was unnecessary.

This dress, on the other hand, had all the features that the previous outfit lacked. I loved the chiffon petal layering!

David Dixon, taking a walk

Karen and Amy of Freedom Clothing Collective

Women like Christine are a rare breed. Her looks are always head-to-toe and they tell a story: one day she’s an afro sporting diva from the 70′s and next she’s ready to throw a 40′s dinner party. I fell in love with this particular outfit from across the runway. We were checking out one another’s hats and the rest is history. Christine works at Bungalow in Kensington, so be sure to stop in and say hello.

Emma, myself and Christine

Belly tops are back!

Ran into Cat Essiambre of The Deadly Nightshades on my way into Tuesday’s shows. Her Le Petit Beret looked adorable and I want to steal her glasses, on loan from boss Philip Sparks.

I’m so happy that Pat McDonagh didn’t do another Baskin-Robbins collection. I was concerned about seeing more ice cream flavor dresses. This time, the show started with a series of Russian military looks. There was lots of red, thick fabrics, gold detailing and structure. Pat does beautiful tailoring, but I wasn’t impressed creatively. It’s been done.

The later portion was very different: a couple Emilia Earheart outfits, a block of white, mal-executed feathers, a tacky lingerie dress and then bridal.

This photo makes the dress look better than it actually was. The shoulders weren’t wings, but fake doves that flopped around as she walked. It’s as if they were thrown on last minute, in an attempt to save an otherwise boring look.

Ashley Winnington-Ball was selling her resin-coated jewelry in the boutique section throughout the week. She’s also the manager of Shopgirls in Parkdale, a fantastic boutqiue that features the work of canadian designers and artists.

Erin in a Chanel headscarf and Leah, the leather queen.

Stefania needs to come out from behind the camera more often. I love the colours in her smock!

The LUNDSTROM show was nice but simple. I liked the use of muted velvet and the sparkly black evening jacket at the end was nice, but I wasn’t left swooning.

Evan Biddell did a melange of exoskeletons, fashion ninjas and a splash of cat for good measure.

I loved Biddell’s injection of colour and, as always, his creative use of hoods was great; but, the prints were a tad busy for me.

The detail on this jacket was unreal. The basket weaving technique was beautifully executed, creating a structured look that wasn’t too stiff.

Some of his pieces were quite unflattering though, like the stout metallic pants and dress with stuffed back humps.

More than anything, I was in love with his cropped tiger trench. Seeing as it’s the year of the tiger – my year  - it was very appropriate. I want it!

I liked his use of cork – especially the skirt – but this piece was rigid and cumbersome. I couldn’t help but think of an armadillo. That being said, art doesn’t always have to be practical and I like that Biddell takes risks.

Irene Stickney of The Make Den in one of her own creations.

Jeff Rustia of Club Fashion Television reinvigorates disco chic

The infamous milliner, Jorge

One of his creations

Kealan and Russell of 69 Vintage

Michelle between bites of birthday cake

I love impromptu photo shoots! Leah just happened to match Michelle’s room perfectly. Meow!

Everyone snuggled into bed with the Freedom Clothing Collective, enjoying an evening of all things comfy, cozy and sexy. We made masks out of fabulous laces and friendly fabrics and shopped from an amazing selection of locally made jewelery, artisan clutches, modern millinery and prêt a porter clothing.

I transformed Room 222 into a bejeweled underwater paradise. Vintage clothing and accessories for women and men were for sale as well as Cozette millinery creations and reworked vintage by Edmund and Lou.

Photography by Sarah Magwood and Quenton Fortune

I love how youthful this girl’s style is. Apparently it’s time to dig out my mini napsack from grade six.

Esme and Stef of Edmund and Lou

Briony battles with the sailor blazer while Kristen falls in love with a classic Karl Lagerfeld

The lovely Erika Bee of Sub Rosa Vintage in Kensington

YSL and Dior and Givenchy . . . OH MY!

Mini tutorial

I seem to have discovered the fashionable equivalent to a beer helmet