Cozette

Now in its fifth year, FAT is an event as much as an ideology. Rather than pandering to corporate advertising, organizer Vanja Vasic continues to focus on the artistic integrity of fashion and its integration into various art forms, including film, dance, music, photography and installation.

The five day alternative to mainstream LG Fashion Week opened with 3 SOLOS 1 DUET by Marq Frerichs. The powerful operatic performance and accompanying ballet duet perfectly articulated the day’s theme – longing – by exploring a person’s relationship with him/herself and the other.

It’s a good thing that the Davidamor collection was nice, because the show was a mess. The smoke machines, intended to create a romantic 1960s ambiance, did little more than choke the audience (including an unimpressed Jeanne Beker) and you could barely see the first few looks through the thick, smelly smoke. The haze quickly cleared, though, to reveal classic dresses and skirts in muted plums, moss greens and midnight blues.

Joelle Wall’s work was well tailored, nicely finished and practical for the working woman.

And yet, she also pushed the envelope.

Epoque by Thea Barber was supposedly inspired by her travels in Morocco, but the collection was quite banal. At the heart of the line was a series of simple, nude dresses that lacked creativity and/or any connection to the vibrant, rich culture of northern Africa. The I Dream of Jeannie hair styling was fantastic and yes, she used eco-friendly fabrics, but I’m becoming increasingly annoyed with designer bs when it comes to their inspirations.

Ryerson graduate Hilary Sampliner, on the other hand, presented an interesting take on frilly glamour. The line, Ruth Weil, is named after Sampliner’s grandmother who left the young designer her entire sewing kit and name labels when she passed.

I was quite impressed with the young designer’s workmanship, especially her use of layering and biased cuts.

Photographer Stefania Yarhi has mastered practical chic, ’cause you have to be comfortable if you’re going to battle the big boys for that perfect shot in the pit.

Melow presented an uninspiring collection of separates that was reminiscent of The Fairies Pyjamas. I also really wish that designers like Melissa Bolduc would leave headwear design to the professionals.

You can’t just throw raw edged crinoline on a headband and call it millinery design!

Thank goodness for artists like Jasper Garvida, however. His 1920s inspired collection was breathtaking, particularly this wool cashmere blend. I fell even more in love after seeing the dress backstage. The black ground was a single, laser cut panel into which he perfectly sewed puzzle pieces of fabric and leather.

His capes and jackets were also stunning, panels of shaved mink being seamlessly joined to create works of wearable art. This piece was my favourite of the series, probably because I own its vintage Parisian equivalent.

I’m happy to say that I snagged a pair of the shoes from this show at the designer sale FAT hosted this past Sunday. $40!

New York based musician Jet Phynx

Philipe and I explored the many installations and interactive rooms that were set up backstage . . .

On Saturday night, I hosted a massive Cozette sale at my loft on Lansdowne. I love having parties, because it’s rare to have all my friends in one place.

Brett and Emilia

This is one of several dresses I altered for the event. I brought the hemline up by 8″ and then used some of the extra fabric to make a hair bow. So adorable! It’s amazing how small alterations can totally change a piece.

Aria scored this amazing tropical dress from my collection. We accessorized her find with a hair piece from my Poppy collection and a vintage necklace I purchased in Barcelona a couple summers ago.

Emma in one of my faux fur coats.

Jose of Funktion Gallery and his lovely girlfriend, new dress in tote

Kealan was so happy with her purchases, all of which are accompanying her to Paris this month.

Last night, Melissa Clemente unveiled her fall/winter jewelry line at The Great Hall in conjunction with a collective exhibition by local Toronto artists in multiple disciplines. This is the first non-culturally inspired line produced by MCD.

Rather than drawing on her Filipino background, the exhibition was inspired by Melissa’s own love life and specifically a series of journals she kept during a tumultuous four year relationship. This light box piece was by far my favourite. Each facet of the structure was collaged in powerful excerpts from her diaries about love, sacrifice and heartache. It was unbelievable how she articulated the emotional struggles we’ve all faced, especially the confusion and denial surrounding an inevitable breakup.

I loved Melissa’s use of jewelry techniques for installation purposes, such as this piece that incorporated hundreds of feet of handmade chain.

Some of my oldest and dearest friends: Maeve, Heli and Maddie

The ever adorable Daniela Bosco of Chasse Gardee

The ladies in full form

Fogged out friends

Saturday night was spent at Buy Design, an annual fundraiser in support of Windfall. The organization distributes new clothes and basic-needs items to more than 64,000 in the GTA.

The Fermenting Cellar in the Distillery Historic District was transformed into a 1930′s daytime romping ground, complete with badminton, swing dancing and a mess hall auction!

I was so impressed by the amount of effort that everyone put into their outfits, especially the men.

This past Friday, I headed to the Arcadian Court for Ryerson’s annual Mass Exodus fashion show. My girlfriend, Stefanie Ayoub, just finished her second year in design and I was so proud to see her eveningwear piece in Serpentinata. I unfortunately didn’t snap a good image of her piece, but it was by far the best in show. The form fitting dress was done in soft pinks with whimsical silk chiffon detailing that rippled down the runway.

I had the pleasure of meeting actor Debra McGrath, Mayor Popowicz on CBC’s Little Mosque on the Prairie. She was so elegant and her patent leather safety pin McQueen bag was amazing.

While I’m disappointed that David Dixon decided to do yet another Barbie collection, the line wasn’t bad.

Dixon could have been more adventurous in his use of colour, but the textiles – however pink – were beautifully made. This three-dimensional fabric, for instance, had a life of its own. The lightly sewn scales dipped and ruffled with every step, as if the dress was breathing. That being said, the extra layers were distracting and too heavy for an otherwise airy look.

His raw silk take on houndstooth was also quite nice. The pattern was imperfect and looked more like rorschach blotting than the traditional Scottish pattern.

I was so excited to wear my favourite vintage hat! I found it last fall at The Stella Antiques Show in New York and I’d been waiting MONTHS for the perfect occasion. I was even happier after organizers handed out dozens of cases of beer!

Dixon’s own line was more refined. He created a perfect hybrid between classic and modern tailoring.

His colour palette was also more wearable and elegant.

The only look that I really loathed was this one. Dixon tried to hit too many trend points, the result being a disjointed fashion Picasso. The lace was too heavy for the feathers, the skirt was too conservative for the top and the belt was unnecessary.

This dress, on the other hand, had all the features that the previous outfit lacked. I loved the chiffon petal layering!

David Dixon, taking a walk

Karen and Amy of Freedom Clothing Collective

Women like Christine are a rare breed. Her looks are always head-to-toe and they tell a story: one day she’s an afro sporting diva from the 70′s and next she’s ready to throw a 40′s dinner party. I fell in love with this particular outfit from across the runway. We were checking out one another’s hats and the rest is history. Christine works at Bungalow in Kensington, so be sure to stop in and say hello.

Emma, myself and Christine

Belly tops are back!

Stacey McKenzie at the beginning of night four

Photographer James Kachan

Briony in her staple/amazing clear heels

Sarah M and Sarah M

Leah in yet another leather-centric ensemble

Photographer Jonathan Loek

Emma and Erin, waiting for the Joe Fresh show to begin

I wasn’t impressed with Mimran’s most recent collection. The designs were as stale as day old Loblaws bread.

The 69 Vintage crew: owner Kealan, employee Emma and Leah of lost+found